Blog du Wren

Biking Vienna to Budapest

Ever since I heard about the EuroVelo system of bike paths across Europe, I felt like I needed to check it out. I didn't know how or when, but it seemed like a good fit for me. As I do most of my travel in Europe's winter, I thought it might be a bit of a pipe dream. After all, who likes pedaling in rain, snow, and freezing temperatures? I somewhat put it in the back of my mind until...

During my Christmas cruise down the Danube, after the weather went from sub-freezing to just at or above freezing, I found myself eying the pleasantly paved paths that line much of the Danube thinking, "Maybe this could actually work!" A quick peek at the weather forecast once the cruise ended, and it was decided; I was going to do some biking!

No less than an hour after disembarking the ship, I found a place to rent a bike (a big shoutout to Vienna Explorer for 1) being open while everywhere else seemed to be closed 2) having just the right package for me (1-week of rental with helmet, lock, panniers, and tool kit), and 3) being super super nice and supportive!). The cost came to $135, just under $20/day.

EuroVelo 6 passes through Vienna so I had the choice of heading east or west. Going west would keep me mostly in Austria (the most expensive country I'd visited yet) but going east would take me back to where I just was on the cruise. The foriegness (and cheapness) of Slovakia and Hungary won out so I headed east!

As a consequence of doing very little research*, the actuality of the trip differed from my imagination of it. I was picturing a clear, smooth, wide path along the Danube the whole way. While some of it was like that, maybe 40-50%, 20-30% was on less ideal paths (sidewalks, less even surfaces, or sometimes unpaved tracks). The rest was on roads, probably evenly split between very few cars making for a lovely ride and not overly enjoyable because cars are more frequent and go fast. Those percentages might have skewed more favorable had the signage been a bit better so I didn't get lost as much and I wasn't in the offseason so facilities (hotels, ferries, etc.) were open and operating. But even as it was, EuroVelo 6 between Vienna and Budapest was a very pleasant ride.

Another "didn't fully think it through" consequence was the state of my body. Sure I ride a bike at home. I sometimes even ride 10 miles in a go, usually in less than an hour. So having a full 24 hours to ride 30-40 miles for 4 or 5 days in a row? That should be easy, right? Easy? No. It was doable, but at a cost. My legs (quads, specifically) really turned to jelly by the end of the day. I found myself cursing hostel keepers for putting me in a 4th floor walk-up room. But that was the good kind of hurt, the kind that makes it feel like you're getting stronger. My "sit bones", however, were a different kind of hurt. By the end of the day, esp. when I ended up on less than smooth pavement, I would audibly yelp when I hit a bump.

In the end, I covered the ~180 miles to Budapest in 4 days, quicker than I anticipated, but mostly because I had a hard time finding hotels where and when I needed them (leading to cycling much longer than I wanted at the end of the day). I could have kept going because I had the bike for another 3 days, but my body told me to maybe chill. So I ended up taking the train back to Vienna and using the bike to get around the city which greatly increased my appreciation of the place! And it only took a day or two of rest before my "sit bones" were no worse for wear!

Very often while in the saddle, I found myself comparing the experience to that of the Camino last year. There were just so many similarities: physically taxing, off season, loneliness, motivation, diet (grocery store meat and cheese FTW). And just like the Camino, while I can't say that I had the best time ever, I am really glad I did it. It was where I was meant to be.

I think with better planning (esp. in regards to not pushing myself so hard) in a less off-season, a long bike trip could be a really good trip for me, though I don't imagine I'll put it at the top of my list. I've done Europe 2 years in a row now, and there's so much of the world still to be seen. But, like I said, I'm glad it's a thing that I've done.

Saturday January 7 2023

File under: travel, europe

Toggle Comments (2)

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on Sun 08th Jan, 2023 11:27 am CST Horge said:
Nice! Sounds fun, especially since it was downstream (I'd not enjoy it so much going upstream), though of course hardly coasting the whole way.
Did you enjoy Bratislava? When I was there years ago, I found it nice, with lots of interesting, weird statues around downtown
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on Wed 11th Jan, 2023 12:30 pm CST Andrew said:
Nailed it!
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